Rick sent me some info about polishing the guts of the Jewells to smooth them out. I did 2 last year but was a bit skeptical as I did not have a spare at hand if I did something WRONG. Well I took my new spare and tore into it. What a difference. Very basic stuff.
I will share the info if you feel adventurous. This was information from a post on BR Central by Jack Neary.
OK... Here's your trigger improvement tip for the day from my new weekly anal Reloading Show on PBS network!
DISCLAIMER: Do Not Use Bullseye Powder to fix your trigger! (Sorry, Jackie... I saw the shot and I took it!)
First... get a clean white towel (please avoid taking the nice new bathroom towel with your bride's name on it to use for this operation....trust me here, guys!)
Lay your grit-filled trigger on your clean white towel (You can see the little parts better a white towel... just a tip from the trades) as it will help to keep all the parts from bouncing underneath your workbench
Next.... You must use a proper fitting Phillip screw driver (I bought a Husky Pro #544-572 #1 tip Phillips screwdriver from Home Depot that fits the screws in the Jewell perfectly, this is extremely important, so you don't turn your Jewell BR trigger phillips-heads into allen-head screws!) and take the trigger completely apart apart and clean it with Lacquer Thinner (also available at HD, if I didn't already buy it all!)
Please take note to see if your trigger hanger came off your trigger with SOME drag or tighlty(Most do!), it is caused by 1 of the small Phillips screws slightly protruding above the surface of the top trigger-plate, which causes rubbing on the inside of the trigger-hanger). If left unchecked, this protruding phillips screw may cause your trigger plate to slightly pinch and bind your top-lever of your trigger, just a tiny amount, to cause drag, which creates poor ignition (big damn groups!).
This can be fixed, if you carefully hold the screw and rub it on some 600-800 grit metal sandpaper, attached to a flat-surface (kitchen counter top is ideal surface.... especially if your less than BR understanding wife is over at her mother's house!) with some double-sided tape. Lightly sand just enough to de-burr the the top of the phillip screw, so when you put your trigger back togther the trigger hanger EASILY slides over the side-plates of your trigger. Aaaaahhh Nice!!
It's probably important now to tell you to please take care to not lose the small spring behind the trigger shoe when you remove it from the dowel pin that holds it in place. (If anyone should need replacment Jewell trigger spring, please feel free to call Joe Krupa to have him ship you one, at N/C, as I have given him at least 11 replacement springs and misc. Jewell parts...over the last 2 years....%$#@!)
If you're unsure of the state of the operation of your Jewell BR trigger and its effect on your iginition, look at the inside of each side plate. If you are seeing deep radius scratch/drag marks, from where the top-lever is rubbing, this is definetly NOT helping your guns agging potential!! I humbly believe my advice could very much improve your ignition, through eliminating some unexplained lost and stupid shots out of your groups!
Next, HAND polish (no rasp file needed here, guys!) the inside trigger side-plates and top lever with Flitz (available at better stores everywhere, but never close to your house...?) on a polishing cloth, wrapped on a piece of flat bar-stock (or get a piece of glass-plate and LIGHTLY rub the side plates on a polishing cloth (with Flitz) laid on top of the glass plate. This will make your Jewell side-plates silky smooth! (and also make huge mess!). Note, this VERY important as your cocking piece on your bolt is pressing the top lever in your trigger slightly to the left, as your bolt is being cocked. Polishing the side plates of the inside of your triggers will reduce the friction from the force of the cocking piece and promote quicker lock-time/ignition... Also check your internal small levers and the top lever for burs, again, LIGHTLY polish with Flitz... (Show sponsor, what can I say?)
THOROUGHLY clean with Lacquer Thinner (while beling very careful not to spill the whole damn can of Lacquer Thinner while neck-turning at 3:00AM (are you listening Allen Tucker?)on the nice, new Cherry finished Desk in your hotel room (Please e-mail me for a picture), and removing ALL of the beautiful Cherry finish, like room #726 at the lovely new Holiday Inn Suites Hotel, in Charlottesville, VA (That's another story we'll save for later on....)
Anyway, once you have thoroughly cleaned all of the parts, take some LIGHT oil, yes, I said oil, NOT lighter fluid..... Tom Meridith's new TM oil is perfect! (Potential show sponsor)) and VERY LIGHTLY coat both sides of all of the trigger parts with oil and put it back together, CAREFULLY (being careful not to have any left-over parts!) The diagram that came with your trigger is easy, even for me, to follow (I like pictures!)
Take a minute to test your new super-slick trigger, before you put it back in your gun, to ensure the top-lever drops with no resistance or dragging when you press gently on the trigger!
Not trying to open Pandora's box here.... but, some of todays scope problems can be amazingly fixed with better ignition derived from a proper working trigger!
Replace back in your BR rifle. You may possibly need to make only a slight adjustment to the pull weight... Now go out and win some 2-guns with your improved Jewell Trigger!